All 99pts from Allen Meadows! - Burgundy Cave's four picks out of seven from 2000-2005

November 8, 2017

There could be a lot of 100-points given by very professional critics from Wine Advocate or by James Suckling, however Allen Meadows, who puts most of his focus in Burgundy, has only given 100 points to Domaine de la Romanee Conti 1945 to date and this bottle is absolutely near-impossible to get your hands on nowadays.

 

On Allen Meadows's scoring benchmark, he is quite conservative, to the extent that he has only given 99 points to only two wines for vintages since the 2006 vintage and only a total of seven wines between 2000 and 2005 vintages - these are widely trusted to be "perfect" Burgundy that you should definitely taste in your lifetime. Despite the high scores, the prices are still relatively affordable - surely will not take up all of your annual wine budget –

 

Ponsot Clos de la Roche VV 2005

HK$7,800 per bottle

99 pts Allen Meadows

All the superb and dramatic complexity that this displayed from barrel has made it into bottle as an extremely ripe and fantastically broad nose soars from the glass, merging seamlessly into dense, pure rich and powerful flavors that are opulent, sweet and dripping with so much extract and sap that the combination stains and saturates the palate on the hugely proportioned yet impeccably balanced finish that is so long that it doesn't seem possible. Given how many reference standard vintages Domaine Ponsot has produced of the Clos de la Roche over the years, it would be presumptuous to anoint this as the best ever but if it isn't, it will certainly take its rightful place among the very greatest. In sum, a 'wow' wine that makes you shake your head in sheer amazement. However be aware that this is a buy and forget wine as it will require at least 15 years to shed its considerable tannins and it will see 50 years without difficulty.

 

Comte de Vogue Musigny VV 2005

HK$9,500 per bottle

99 pts Allen Meadows

Prepare to be transported. A positively brilliant nose of violet and rose petal shines against a background of intensely spiced extravagant red and black pinot fruit nuanced by hints of earth and stone and this minerality continues onto the surprisingly supple flavors that convey a remarkable sense of energy and power on the almost unbelievably intense, focused and structured finish that seems to go on and on without end. And the '05 VV has what all truly great burgundies have which is that extra dimension of power without weight as this carries terrific punch and power yet delivers that explosiveness with impeccable class and grace. While I am duly mindful of the many legendary wines this domaine has produced (see the database for all vintages reviewed dating to 1919), the 2005 could very well join the list of the all time greats, there is really that much potential here. Whether it will ultimately transcend the heights achieved by the 1919 or the 1949 (among many others) remains an open question, I have zero doubt that 2005 will be a genuinely great vintage for this wine. Brilliance personified and absolutely a 'wow' wine, in fact, this merits a double 'wow'.

 

Armand Rousseau Chambertin 2005

HK$17,900 per bottle

99 pts Allen Meadows

I was frankly quite surprised to find the Chambertin almost as expressive and every bit as broad aromatically as the Bèze as the nose is equally kaleidoscopic if featuring a more deeply pitched set of fruit aromas and more earth. The flavors are bigger if not finer with serious power and weight on the rich, full and driving finish that possesses an exuberant underlying sense of energy, all wrapped in a core of rock solid but ripe and balanced tannins. Like the potential of the Bèze, this too has a chance to ascend as one of the top vintages ever typified by such years as '34, '49, '52, '62, '66 and '91. Arguably the Chambertin of the vintage.

 

JF Mugnier Musigny 2005

HK$18,500 per bottle

99 pts Allen Meadows

Candor forces me to admit that mere words won't begin to do a wine like this justice so I will simply state that the Mugnier Musigny is a compelling candidate for wine of the vintage honors, which is saying something significant in such a gifted vintage like 2005. An incredibly complex and kaleidoscopic nose features a dazzling array of aromas, particularly violet and rose petal nuanced with anise, clove and cinnamon that merges seamlessly into sweet, pure and ultra refined full-bodied flavors that are harmonious and deep, with a driving tension that forces everything into striking relief yet the palate impression is pure velvet on the immensely long finish. Moreover, it delivers one of my favorite aspects of great burgundy, which is power without weight but in this case, the '05 Musigny is an enormously powerful wine but not especially weighty. In short, this is flat out brilliant and is a wine that you will definitely want in your cellar.

 

Subject to final confirmation. In very good conditions, only few bottles of each. 

 

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