Located next to Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis has been overlooked in the past years. It’s hard to believe this when Domaine Dujac offer a clear distinction between their Clos de la Roche and Clos st Denis.
When Dujac Clos St Denis 2012 is marketed at nearly $4000/bottle. I do advise to pick Lucien Le Moine to taste Clos St Denis in a more approachable price. In Neal Martin’s view, Lucien Le Moine produces an “excellent” and “beautiful” Clos St Denis and rated it 94-96 pts.
Considering Dujac Clos st Denis has been scored 95-97 pts, a slightly one score higher but selling 3 times of Lucien’s price!
2012 Clos St Denis Grand Cru, Lucien Le Moine
94-96 pts Neal Martin
$1,550/BT (minimum order 3 bottles)
The 2012 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru has a primal, animally bouquet with broody dark berry fruit - bouquet with intent, yet tightly coiled and broody. The palate is very precise with touches of balsamic and spice. It unfolds in the glass and leads naturally toward the long finish that fans out beautifully. Excellent.
It is always a pleasure to visit the indefatigable Mounir Saouma at his hideaway winery just off the Beaune periphique. He is a winemaker you can jest with, and he is often victim of my sardonic Essex humor (for example, when enthusing about obtaining one of five barrels of a premier cru, I dryly enquired whether the other four were sold off for distillation - I would not say that to Aubert de Villaine.) And I appreciate Mounir's wines. They used to taste a little too fat and almost over-powering in their youth, but I think he is fine-tuning his reductive winemaking style, achieving more freshness and vitality. I tasted his 2012 reds since the whites were still undergoing malolactic. Among the tidal wave of opinions, one that he emphasized was that to capture the quality of the vintage under cork, the wines should be bottled late, and not in spring when Burgundy will resound to the clinking of glass. Mounir also told me that he paid 50% more from wines in 2012 than in 2011, but that he intends to keep prices within 15% increase.
And also a map to reflect the location of Clos St Denis -
Subject to final confirmation.